I welcome everyone, and today I would like to complete the cycle by adding another interesting option, namely a custom programmer. In it, I will try to fix everything that cheap Chinese whistles sin so badly about. And in the end, get a really cool and easy-to-use tool. Those who have not yet understood or simply have not watched the releases on this topic, the programmer is a special device that allows you to download the firmware very quickly and reliably. Your microcontroller, in contrast to the usual boot loader for many, using the programmer has a number of indisputable advantages. Firstly, the download speed of the program is much higher, which is very convenient when debugging large projects; secondly, loading through the boot loader may be interrupted due to a mismatch in speeds and other side effects. Do not forget about the fact that the bootloader is also a kind of program, which means it takes up space in flash memory. Which can also be critical, especially when every byte counts, and of course, not all microcontrollers can use a bootloader, for example, all sorts of inexpensive from the shadow with a small amount of memory will in any case require you to have at least some programmer which, in a word, will also allow you to perform special microcontroller settings, the change of which is not available using the bootloader. As a result, the programmer can be useful for an ordinary arduino cheek to perform the following tasks, fast loading of sketches, release of a certain amount of flash memory due to the absence of a bootloader overwriting this very bootloader. For example, when repairing an arduino board, the use of cheap delay in a project, and of course, access to special settings that provide almost any custom kernel for arduino food, and as a result, I still highly recommend Chinese usb bsp purchases, but over a couple of years of use I have accumulated a number of complaints which I would like to work on when creating my own programmer. I think many are happy with its owner and could not help but notice the simply disgusting workmanship, especially the soldering of the connectors and even some of the indie elements, it happens that the purchased whistle simply refuses to work without preliminary revision with a file, plus the format of such a device itself. Not to say that a very convenient kit comes with a rather short cable in which you also have to hook an additional adapter to a six-pin connector. As for the filling itself, it is rather inconvenient for me to use jumpers, for example, to change the supply voltage, why use jumpers when such a cool thing as dip switches has existed for many years. It is convenient and compact, besides, they will never get lost, unlike the same jumpers, and the last but not less important, just a disgusting stabilizer of 3.3V, which, purely because of its size, will pull well at least ten milliamperes of long-term current that is, you have every chance to deepen this unfortunate stabilizer. When powering a device with a display or several LEDs, having collected all my claims together, I decided to make a fundamentally different whistle, the programmer, while almost preserving the original circuitry with bsp, by the way, from chipboard, this is a completely open project that anyone can repeat. Moreover, it itself is built on the basis of the very affordable atmega8 and a few more elements, absolutely all the necessary materials are on the website of its creator. The main idea is to get rid of a bunch of unnecessary joints and plug the programmer directly into the six-pin connector and connect to a computer using a regular usb cable as a development environment, I will use a free easy idea that provides all the necessary functionality for modeling and simulating circuits, plus the whole a bunch of ready-made templates from an impressive community, the scheme of my programmer is based on a native and proven scheme from chipboard. There are several interesting chips about which I will now tell you in order to provide a 3-volt power supply with a low-voltage device and the logic of a 3-volt stabilizer must completely power the programmer. So it is installed directly at the input if 3 volts are not needed just for the karachev input and output of the stabilizer and we already get 5 volts directly from usb the first switch is engaged in this. Further, if necessary, the supply voltage can be applied to the connector in order to power the firmware and the device, or not to supply this is provided by the second switch. Also on the native circuit there is a jumper that reduces the frequency of the firmware it works on new versions or is no longer unclear, but I think the third switch is worth occupying, but the last switch is useful when flashing the programmer itself, it simply connects the microcontroller cutter with the resident on espero with snakes like an eater came up perfectly with a four-leg switch where, by the way, a small family of a button was added to the dump shop, just in case. what As for connecting a computer, here I thought why install one connector when you can install two for different types of cables at first I wanted to use usb type-c but these connectors have quite a lot of contacts so I decided not to complicate my life and use micro and miniusb on opposite sides of the board which should make it easier to find the cable usb connectors are simply connected in parallel and connected to the microcontroller. What is interesting here is used completely software emulation usb due to the use of the library in the hut, but the last actually connecting the programmer to six to a new connector for this, I decided to use exactly the same connector as for adapters 6 to 10 pins, but since his searches were not crowned with success to use one of these adapters as a donor, I also had to create a separate element and its footprint in order to easily place the connector on the board. This completes the scheme and you can go further. I spread the board in the built-in editor by simply placing all the elements as it was not convenient and by running the auto trassir in the conclusion, I got rid of the sharp corners and applied silk-screen printing to facilitate soldering and using the programmer. The surcharge could have been made even more compact and the installation even denser, but such an arrangement of elements liked the sword purely visually, if someone decides to modify the project to suit their needs, it is completely open and you will find a link to it in the description, boldly copy the diagram and arrange the elements as you see fit. I think nothing gives the device such a laconic and finished look as an individually issued board for it, so I entrusted the production to Jill's company, which offers 5 completely finished boards whose size does not exceed 10 by 10 centimeters for only $ 2. Plus, the boards can have very complex geometry, which is so difficult to achieve in home production without wasting time, go to Jill, load the gerbera file, choose the color of the mask, and after a couple of weeks we get what we recently drew on the computer at the price of small batches of two bucks. has a simply gorgeous quality of processing and silk-screening; it is literally pleasant to hold the blue mask in my hands. I like the black matte mask less, but I chose it for further visual comparison with the native usb s.p. Most of the elements on the board are in smd format and to simplify life, it is highly recommended to use a good, desired gel-like flux, and it can also come in handy, and I started with the soldering hair dryer from the connectors, since they are the most capricious and inconvenient in this regard. and subsequently, having soldered the contacts directly with a soldering iron, then there is a microcontroller that you just need to place and fix in place and then walk with a flat sting over all the contacts and the snot will not work and the soldering quality will be excellent, but other standard smd components will appear very simply put a drop of flux on the pad We glue the element to it and then, holding it with tweezers, we solder the pad with a soldering iron and all the same connector. To connect to the dress, you need to dismantle it from the adapter and not forgetting its location in the same way, solder it to the board after the end of the soldering, be sure to wash it in payment using a solvent, you can also use soapy water in addition to end up with such a very nice whistle. Unfortunately, until we fill it with the firmware, this is just a piece of PCB, so to complete we need a programmer, yes, I understand the absurdity of the situation, so we will consider two methods of firmware at once 1 will require you to have another programmer and the second only an arduino board to start with to the author's website from the chipboard and download the most current archive, open the archive and follow the path been here in and find a file with bsp atmega8 hex, which we immediately throw out on the desktop. So the first method can be said in a simpler way, but it is much more dangerous for beginners, so in order to avoid bricking it, I do not deviate from the instructions a single step for this method, you will need the avrdude utility. And also the usbasp programmer, or any other supported by this utility on the programmer we have made, we translate the extremely switch in the update state, but the opposite state, then we connect it to usb bsp observing the standard pinout, that is, me suck me so massey spout and so on I think with this no problems will arise, especially since the pinout can be found directly on the silkscreen. Now we run the avrdude utility of samples in which we select the atmega 8 of the usb sp programmer and click to erase all the success of this operation means that everything is assembled and connected correctly now we go to the fuses item click by default. After that, the programming button further in the section luffy us bytes, remove all the check marks from the bits to sat down and again press programming on this with visas finished. Go back to the programs tab and in the flash section select the hex file with the firmware that we previously removed from the rhiva. Immediately press the programming button and the firmware is over. We return the switch to the work state and ready if you do not have a full-fledged programmer, you can use the arduino board turned into a programmer.
So we open the standard, for example arduino s.p. we set up everything as it should and fill in the arduino, by the way, you need to immediately look and remember which com-port the payment is connected to, now you need to find the arduino board on the disk and go to the next path directly into this folder, drop the hex file with the firmware and then click the cursor on the path in the explorer write cmd and press enter. In the command line that opens, you need to drop a special line that you can copy in the description with only one caveat, you need to change the com port number to the one to which the arduino board is connected, press enter and if successful, the firmware will be poured into the programmer. Moreover, you won't have to conjure with visas, which is somewhat safer, in the end we got this kind of compact programmer that provides all the necessary functionality of usb bsp, but at the same time has a more ergonomic format. Having used it for about a week, I can safely recommend repeating it, but for those who think that it could have been made even more compact, please offer more dense layout options in the comments, but in the description you will find a detailed text lesson on the use of the programmer, which I also recommend to familiarize yourself with also taking this opportunity I can not help but congratulate all those who survived this difficult year and wish them further productive study of the arduino topic, and on that all, evaluate this video and see you next year 2021.